A couple with two girls and one boy are watching a window intensely. Then it happens. The moment comes when they have been waiting for. Two massive Beluga whales glide by the window and dive to the bottom of their enclosure. Then, they gracefully rise and swim out of view. But wait! Here comes one of them, and the whale swims toward the window and gently bumps it. The kids are delighted and wave to the whale. In the background, the other whale plays with a blue blanket, lifts it with its head, drops it, and picks it up again. This goes on for quite a while. Then the boy turns around and says apologetically: “Am I blocking your view?” I smile at him and say it is OK. After all, the whales are not going anywhere. Actually, I loved watching the interaction between the kids and the whales. I compliment the parents on their son’s considerate nature. They laugh and say that he has all of the considerate nature among their children. This is a scene from the Life Trust Beluga Whale Sanctuary in the Westman Islands, which I visited during my recent jaunt around Iceland with my wife.
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A pioneering beluga whale sanctuary in the Westman Islands
In Spring 2019, the Sea Life Trust and the Whale and Dolphin Conservation (WDC) embarked on a historic venture to create the world’s first beluga whale sanctuary. This pioneering marine and animal welfare project welcomed two female beluga whales, Little Grey and Little White. They journeyed 6,000 miles from their previous home in Shanghai’s Changfeng Ocean World aquarium to their new sanctuary in Iceland’s Klettsvik Bay in the Westman Islands. This is done to prepare the belugas to return to their natural habitat in the Arctic Ocean, where they can hopefully roam in peace.
I wanted to see beluga whales up close and personal
It had been a dream of mine to see the Beluga whales up close and personal. It didn’t hurt that the Westman Islands were a perfect first stop on our road trip around Iceland this summer. Getting to the Westman Islands is easy. You can catch the ferry at Landeyjarhöfn harbor, just under a two-hour drive from Reykjavik. There is no need to bring a car to the Westman Islands. I’m sure you are well-clothed. The Westman Islands have even more changeable weather than the rest of Iceland! The Westman Islands has a surprising number of good restaurants, including the legendary Slippurinn, and its local Brothers brewery makes excellent craft beers. Then, there is the history of the 1973 eruption, perfectly captured in the unique Eldheimar exhibition. A hike to Eldfell volcano is an essential part of your first time visiting the Westman Islands.
The beluga whale sanctuary in the Westman Islands is tailor made for Little Grey and Little White
The Seal Life Trust Beluga Whale Sanctuary in the Westman Islands provides a safe and more natural environment for these majestic creatures. This sanctuary offers a spacious and secluded bay area. Approximately 32,000 sqm and up to 10 meters deep refuge allowsthe belugas to swim, explore, and dive freely. The choice of Klettsvik Bay was strategic. Cool coastal waters closely mimic the natural sub-Arctic habitat of beluga whales. There they can interact with a rich variety of local flora and wildlife.
Transporting life whales across continents is not easy
Merlin Entertainments, which acquired the Shanghai Aquarium in 2012, played a crucial role in this initiative, aligning with its philosophy against cetacean captivity for entertainment purposes. Their substantial donation facilitated the construction of the sanctuary and the complex logistics of transporting Little Grey and Little White. The relocation process was meticulously planned, involving custom-built transportation boxes, a chartered Boeing 747-400ERF cargo plane, and ferry transport to ensure the belugas’ safety and comfort.
The sanctuary demonstrates the feasibility of relocating captive belugas to a more natural setting but also aims to inspire similar future projects. With ongoing veterinary care and monitoring, Little Grey and Little White are expected to thrive in their new environment, promoting a better future for captive cetaceans worldwide. The facility also features a visitor and education center, including a puffin hospital, to educate the public about marine conservation and the importance of protecting these incredible creatures.
Puffin intensive care, and well teethed Wolffish
When you enter the facility, you first walk past the ‘bird hospital’ where injured puffins and other seabirds can convalesce. Sorry for being corny, but I have to say how heartwarming it was to see the birds being taken care of. Nature is unforgiving, and injured birds do not stand much of a change in nature. You will then walk past exhibitions of the rich marine life surrounding the Westman Islands. My favorite is, of course, the amply-teethed Wolffish. However, the show’s stars are undoubtedly Little Grey and Little White. What we found fascinating was that they were much more interested in interacting with kids than adults. Perhaps there is some kind of connection there that we grown-ups miss.
I left feeling inspired that whales who wind up in captivity can have a path back to their natural habitat. Hopefully, the sanctuary at Westman Islands will provide that hope for captive whales for many years to come.