Skálholt is one of the most historic sites in Iceland. It was the seat of bishops from 1056 until it was moved to Reykjavik in 1785. The first school in Iceland was also founded there in 1056. Additionally, a huge cathedral was built there by the bishop Klængur Þorsteinsson in 1153.

From Cathedral to a cowshed

The effort required to build that church in the Middle Ages boggles the mind, especially the transport of huge timbers from Norway and inland to the building site in Skálholt. It is said that it took two ships to bring the timber from Norway. However, Skálholt is the site of various churches through the ages that frequently burned down or were destroyed by storms. These churches steadily became smaller until the 19th century. At that point, the church at the former proud bishopric was just a glorified cowshed. This reflects the worsening fortunes of Icelandic society from the Middle Ages onwards.

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The Skálholt bishopric had a school which has been excavated. It´s remains are clearly visible from the church.
The Skálholt bishopric had a school that had been excavated. Its remains are clearly visible from the church.

Skálholt, along with Hólar, was the only real village in almost exclusively rural Iceland. It controlled much of the land and wealth in southern Iceland. It also had a sizable monastery during the Catholic era, but the Reformation put an end to it quickly. Actually, Skálholt is the site of a pivotal event in the civil strife that accompanied the reformation in Iceland. The last Icelandic catholic bishop, Jón Arason, was beheaded with his sons (no, Icelandic clergy definitely did not practice celibacy in the Middle Ages) there in 1550. The rather decrepit monument to the execution shows the ambivalence, or perhaps indifference, that Icelanders have toward the bishop’s brief but violent insurgency against the Danish king. This king ordered his subjects to go through with the Reformation.

The insurgency of the catholic bishop Jón Arason was ended on this spot in 1550.
The insurgency led by the Catholic bishop Jón Arason ended at this spot in 1550.

See the bishop’s sarcophagus

The modern Skálholt is a great place to visit. It has an impressive church, constructed from 1956 to 1963, with a cellar that houses a small museum. Most notably, it houses the huge stone sarcophagus of Bishop Páll Jónsson (1155-1211). The sarcophagus, carved from ca. 800 kg of stone, is believed to have been transported from the distant Vörðufell hill. And boy, am I glad I didn´t have to work on that whim of a vain bishop.

Along with Hólar (the other site of a medieval Iceland bishopric), Skálholt is a cathedral of the Church of Iceland, and like Hólar, it is a site of its suffragan bishops (whatever that means). Adjacent to the church, there are some pretty interesting remains of the Skálholt school dating back to the 18th century. On the other side, there is a cafeteria, where you can see some objects dug up from the old school. The most important thing about modern Skálholt, however, is the annual Skálholt Summer Concerts. This is an ambitious 6-week program that typically involves some 40 public concerts, lectures, and workshops.

How to get there?

From Reykjavik, drive on highway No. 1, turn onto road 35 until you reach road no. 35.

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