Slow travel in the Westfjords – discover this incredible region

The Westfjords region is a stark, beautiful, untamed, serene region. This northwestern peninsula has dramatic fjords, steep mountains, and an unbeatable coastline. It offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life like no other place. Seals, Arctic foxes, birds, and whales are always present there. You drive along the coastline, and suddenly, you may see a whale cruise by. You may glimpse a fox on the prowl. Above you, birds swarm. The area’s low population density and minimal industrial impact make it one of Europe’s most environmentally pristine. This unspoiled nature not only captivates travelers, but in the region, people preserve a way of life that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries, revolving around fishing, hunting, and sheep farming. So it is perfect to slow travel in the Westfjords.

I live in Reykjavik, a tiny village compared to the world’s big cities. But whenever I come to the Westfjords, my batteries recharge like in no other place. Visiting Westfjords uniquely connects me with nature.

A few years ago, I  was kicking back in Ísafjörður with my wife. I decided to go out for a run. It was a perfect day for running; it was overcast and calm, and the temperature was a solid 10 degrees centigrade (50 Fahrenheit). The ocean was a mirror. I quickly turned off my music to soak in this perfection. Then, all of a sudden, I was under a kamikaze attack from Arctic terns. I had strayed into an area close to where they were nesting. Quite correctly, they wanted to defend their young from this sweaty intruder. My head got pecked, and I got a great workout, extracting myself quickly from their no-go zone. I hope the locals were entertained by my ‘strategic retreat.’

I once visited the stunning region of Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. The whole extended family was there, staying in an old lighthouse. On a pristine sunny day with no clouds, my father-in-law and I explored. There was once a farm at Hornstrandir, and while we could see that the people there would have many food sources, we were humbled by how hard people would have to fight for nourishment in this unforgiving environment.

When admiring the terrifyingly steep sea cliffs, I realized I was standing atop a fox den. The cubs eyed us curiously from the safety of the den’s openings. A ‘rich fragrance’ of the foxes’ food supply stored in the den wafted through the air. You could hear nothing but the seabirds and the bubbling from a little stream. This was a utopia for Arctic foxes—plenty of tasty birds nearby and all the water you could want.

Foxes are clever and know exactly where to place their dens. We were not as bright. On our journey we were captivated by the beauty, and just got home in time for dinner. We were grateful for the foggy weather that followed in the coming days since we were ‘a little sunburnt’. OK, we were cooked from the harsh arctic sun that had beaten down like a hammer all day.

I will always cherish these memories. Their lesson is simple: in the Westfjords, nature is the boss.

The word is getting out about the Westfjords, and more and more people want to visit it. But how can you best enjoy the beauty there responsibly with the least disruption to nature? What can travelers do there, and how can you best prepare for your visit? The man to answer these questions is Sölvi Guðmundsson, the team lead for travel and culture at Visit Westfjörds. His mission is to educate people about Westfjords as a traveling destination.

I have been passionate about travel for almost two decades and have witnessed and contributed to the growth of the traveling industry in Iceland. While some regions of Iceland have experienced rapid development, the traveling industry in the Westfjords is evolving in smaller, incremental steps, which I consider a strength for the area. As part of Visit Westfjords, my role involves participating in developing the area as a traveling destination and promoting it domestically and internationally.

The Westfjords are emerging as a notable traveling destination in Iceland and globally, and I feel both lucky and privileged to contribute to the development and promotion of this magnificent region. It is just perfect to slow travel in the Westfjords.

Approximately 10% of the Westfjords are designated as protected nature reserves, safeguarded under the vigilant care of the Environmental Agency of Iceland. The regulations governing these protected areas are tailored to each one, taking into account the protection’s objectives, the area’s specific characteristics, and agreements with stakeholders.

In addition, the Westfjords’ commitment to sustainable practices is further underscored by our EarthCheck certification. Since 2014, the Westfjords have held this sustainability certification, evolving from bronze to silver certification in 2016. This achievement is a testament to the unified environmental effort across all regional municipalities, demonstrating a profoundly committed approach to environmental management.

Keep in mind the principle of leaving no trace. The Westfjords are a big region with many uninhabited areas, so there might be no waste disposal nearby. Take garbage with you, respect the wildlife, and be considerate to other people. Leave what you find. Don’t take that rock or that natural object. Instead, take a photo and leave with a happy memory of a beautiful trip to the fantastic Westfjords.

The Westfjords has long been a melting pot of diverse cultural currents, and it’s so wonderful to see how residents have been proud through the ages to belong to a vibrant multicultural community. Long before the domestic road system and international flights became a reality, Ísafjörður was a powerful trading hub with a cosmopolitan flair. The multicultural vibe is still alive; Ísafjörður hosts a university center that attracts over forty international master’s students across two programs each year.

Many who visit the Westfjords are astonished at the level of services available. We have everything needed despite having a population of around 7.500. It’s also our fortune and luck to be at a convenient distance from the capital area, as we’ve always had to be self-sufficient with our own vibrant cultural life. Speaking of the cultural scene, we can mention music education and world-class music events. Music festivals like Aldrei fór ég suður and Við Djúpið in Ísafjörður, as well as the International Piano Festival in Patreksfjörður, are truly worth visiting!

There are so many great spots in the region. I am always amazed by the beauty of Árnseshreppur; words can barely describe it. The area is so unreal and unique, with rugged and raw landscapes in the region like Reykjaneshyrna and Drangaskörð, abandoned herring factories, and small towns of Norðurfjörður and Djúpavík which are each one kind.

I have always loved the outdoors and being active. Westfjords are, therefore, the perfect playground for me. I can’t pinpoint one activity since it can also be seasonal. I love snowboarding or cross-country skiing in the region during winter. During summer, I cycle, hike, paddleboard, or sea kayak.

Slow travel is the key. If you really want to experience the Westfjords, you need to take your time. Geographically and culturally, the region is large and diverse. The people, stories, and landscape vary depending on which area of the Westfjords you visit.

If you want to immerse yourself in the natural beauty of red sand beaches and cascading waterfalls, culinary experiences, stories of persecution of alleged witches and warlocks, or Viking settlers, you need the time to travel around.