Hvannalindir is a remote and hard to reach highland oasis

Situated in Iceland’s stark and remote northeastern highlands, Hvannalindir stands as a verdant oasis amid a sea of lava fields and rugged mountain ranges. This secluded area, perched at 640 meters, is a testament to nature’s resilience, boasting a unique ecosystem that thrives despite its harsh surroundings. Lindafjöll mountains shelter Hvannalindir to the west. Kreppuhryggur ridge shields the oasis to the east. Hvannalindir is cradled between the Lindahraun and Krepputunguhraun lava fields, creating a hidden paradise where the Lindaá River and its tributaries breathe life into the landscape.

The pleasure of privilege of visiting Hvannalindir

I had the privilege of visiting this remote oasis this summer. My wife and I were on our Iceland road, and we got to the east of Iceland. We stayed at a summer house with my brother-in-law and his wife for four beautiful days. We did our best to take in all the best east of  Iceland. For example, we hiked to Stórurð and visited the wonderful town Borgarfjörður Eystri. This is one of the best places in the world to see puffins. My brother-in-law’s daughter, Þorgerður Þorbjarnardóttr, is a ranger at Hvannalindir. She is one of those over-achieving young people with whom we are so rich here in Iceland. A Cambridge University graduate and the chairperson of  Landvernd – Icelandic Environment Association. I interviewed her for the magazine about her experience as a ranger in the Icelandic highlands.

Rattled and shaken

We borrowed an old Ford 150 pickup truck, which, on our way, we found did not have suspension suitable for the extremely rough drive to Hvannalindir! The drive to Hvannalindir is rough indeed. Hvannalindir is situated in the massive Ódáðahraun lava field, which is just so rugged. Calling the road is to Hvannalindir is generous. You have to some ford some rivers, and sometimes you are just inching along lava rocks. When we got to Hvannalindir we were truly rattled and shaken.

The name Hvannalindir is a testament to the abundance of angelica, or “hvönn” in Icelandic, that thrives here.  This untouched quality makes Hvannalindir a botanical treasure. The flora paints edges of the lava fields in green, offering a stark contrast to the surrounding barren desert.

Close to Hvannalindir is another oasis, the wonderful oasis of Herðubreiðarlindir to the north of Hvannalindir. I use the word close generously, it is a 43 KM rough drive. Fjalla-Eyvindur and Halla also had a hiding place there which you can look there. The incredible highland destination of Kverkfjöll is a 27 KM drive to the south.

Geese heaven

The area is not only a haven for flora but also a sanctuary for fauna, with thirty bird species recorded here, six of which nest annually. The area attracts pink-footed geese, long-tailed ducks, and vibrant red-necked phalaropes, among others, creating a bustling yet peaceful ecosystem that feels worlds apart from the rest of the area’s stark terrain.

Connection with the legend of Fjalla-Eyvindur and Halla

Hvannalindir is also steeped in history and folklore. The area is home to the remnants of an outlaw’s lair, believed to be the hideout of the legendary Fjalla-Eyvindur and his wife Halla in the late 18th century. Discovered in 1880 and later investigated by archaeologist, and then president, Kristján Eldjárn, these ruins offer a glimpse into a past where survival in such a remote area was a testament to human endurance and a source of rich Icelandic legend. I was fascinated by those remains, it was obviously very primitive but there were fascinating details.

The outlaw’s villa

The remains are right next to a stream which would provide some warmth during the deepest coldest winter. There is a enclosure for sheep close to the hut, and there are even natural lava formations which work like enclosures for culling geese. During past time, inhabitants of the north-east would venture up to the highlands when the geese shed their flight-feathers. It was brutal. The geese would be herded into enclosure and slaughtered there. Another details is that Eyvindur and Halla would use animal and bird-bones to help insulate their hut. The bones are still there by the way.

Hvannalindir is truly a hidden gem

If you want to go to Hvannalindir you need to have a 4×4 vehicle and be an experienced driver. But if you reach this incredible place you will offers an unparalleled blend of natural beauty, wildlife, and history. Hvannalindir is a true hidden gem in Iceland’s vast and varied landscape.